Crimp terminals and butt sleeves join wires by pressing them with a tool instead of soldering. Crimps can all look alike, but a poor one may pull out under vibration or tension, or make poor contact and heat up. Here is what you can check by eye and by hand on site.

Match three things before you crimp

What a good crimp looks like

Spotting a bad crimp by its symptoms

SymptomCommon causeWhat to do
Wire turns in the barrel or pulls outUnder-crimped, die cavity too large, or wire too thinRe-crimp with the right terminal and cavity
Split barrel or broken strandsOver-crimped or die cavity too smallCut off and redo with the correct cavity
Insulation trapped in the barrelInsulation stripped too shortRe-strip to barrel length and use a new terminal
Strands outside the barrelStrands not twisted togetherTwist the strands and use a new terminal
No conductor visible at the frontWire not fully insertedInsert fully and use a new terminal
Torn or pierced insulating sleeveTool or cavity meant for bare terminalsRedo with a tool for insulated terminals
Do not re-press a terminal that has already been crimped; cut it off and start with a new one.

Joining wires with a butt sleeve

Insert a wire from each end of the sleeve so they meet in the middle, then crimp each half separately. If one wire goes past the middle, the other has less length to grip. Allpum sleeves come in 15 mm (M) and 30 mm (L) lengths, so choose one with room for two crimps. Sleeves are bare metal, so insulate the joint afterwards where needed.

Six silver metal butt sleeves standing on a white background, three short and three long
Metal butt sleeves in two lengths: short M (15 mm) and long L (30 mm).

A quick on-site routine

Crimp quality depends as much on the size you choose and how you work as on the terminal itself. For choosing tip shapes and sizes, see our guide to crimp terminal types; dimensions and wire ranges are in each product's specification table.

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